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The Darkest Timeline
The above is a photograph of the plaque at the entrance to the Ntarama Genocide Memorial, formerly a church, in Bugesera, Rwanda. Nearly 5,000 people from surrounding towns tried to take refuge here...
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1 Marvelous Thing To Do in Mbabane (Swaziland)
The view from my hotel room was so ruggedly beautiful, I kept expecting the Riders of Rohan to go charging by at any moment. If you’re scratching your head and staring at your globe right now, don’t...
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Taking a Bite Out of Turkey
Bosphorus Bridge by night, serving as a gateway between Europe and Asia I’ve always wanted to come to Turkey – it seems a place out of an Agatha Christie novel as much as a real country. Steeped in...
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Because Nothing Says “Holiday Fun” Like Paying a Stranger to Drown You
“Le Bain Turc,” by Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, 1862 (No, it’s not actually anything like that.) Warning to sensitive readers: This entry contains references to bodies, nudity, and unmentionable...
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Monday Morning Mixtape: All Will Be Well
My palatial suite. What a way to travel. I woke up yesterday morning on a westbound train from Bucharest to Budapest. My computer was shuffling music in the background, and although I’m not an early...
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Paris: City of Art, Romance, and Cliches Beyond Counting.
My family took a European vacation when I was very young – perhaps 8 or 9 – during which we spent several days in Paris. (I cannot prove it, but I’m fairly sure this first foray into international...
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Echoes of Reverse Culture Shock: A Process, Told By Vignettes
The white coffee cup makes a delicate clatter against its saucer as the waitress sets it on the table before me. The noise jerks me from my reverie, in an instant withdrawing my brain 10,000 miles from...
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Ne me quitte pas, mon cher
Ok, I know what I said the other day, but I think I have a NEW favorite street. I arrived in Paris scheduled to the hilt: I had 2.75 days to do what was more realistically probably 2 weeks of touring,...
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Here And Not There
When you walk into my cozy DC apartment, full of knickknacks, the first thing you will see is a coat rack with two hooks. On the left hangs a black women’s trench coat with camel piping, the highest of...
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Epi-blogue, or, Where Is She Now?
“Perhaps travel cannot prevent bigotry, but by demonstrating that all peoples cry, laugh, eat, worry, and die, it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become...
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